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  1. Thanks for the impressions.
    Did you check input lag yourself or is 21 ms the info that LG gave us at CES.

    • LG had a lag setup using a Leo Bodnar into an HD Fury Integral, to an HD Fury Linker into an E7 in gaming mode that was measuring 21-21.5ms. I did not pack my Leo Bodnar for the trip unfortunately.

    • Thanks Rob! Maybe one day I can finally get to the shootout, but another one of our writers lives in NYC and has been by the store looking at the E6 this past year. He’ll probably come by to see the C7/E7 once you have them in.

      • No better time than this year for the 2017 TV Shootout. This year the judging will be done by a panel of professional experts. Joel Silver and Kevin Miller are running the event and selecting the judges. You would be an excellent candidate!

  2. Any impression regarding stuttering and judder, which is something that is discussed in forums as a weak point on the 2016 LG OLED-models?

    • Using the motion tests off Spears & Munsil it seemed fine, though the interpolation on it was really prone to artifacts but most people don’t use that anyway. They did say all panels are 120Hz, so repeating frames 2 or 5 times, depending on content, should work well. I wasn’t able to side-by-side it to a display with known motion, like a plasma, to really be more definitive than that.

  3. I’m curious as to how you are going to test the pixel response time, given that barely any oscilloscopes have the memory or sample rate to measure <1ms !
    Also, these sets still use Sample and Hold, so don't expect moving images at 1080p to be up to Kuros plasma standard, unless they use a new type of fake scanline or something to negate the issue. The Sony OLED that uses this LG panel might be interesting, as Sony's video processing is usually way ahead of LG.

    • What I’m aiming to test is response time for HDR to hit peak light output, which I can do do a reasonable level of accuracy. As an example, some films have HDR peak highlights that last a fraction of a second (only a few frames) and some LED backlights can take 1-2 seconds to reach full power. I plan to test the time from pure black to peak white for each, since if something can hit that instantly, there are situations where that renders HDR visible instead of gone.

      The Sony will be interesting, but I don’t think we get pricing until next week, and I have to imagine it is going to be more expensive. It’ll be a question of how much better (if any) is it, and is that worth the likely premium?

  4. Thanks for the preliminary review! Another area where I feel the LG OLED displays could improve is with upscaling/video processing. Even though I feel a Sony or Samsung would be better in this regard it’s most likely not enough to sway me away from the overall PQ of the C7. Did you notice an improvement in this area? i.e. can I have my cake and eat it too? Thanks.

    • Scaling looked good using the Spears & Munsil test pattern, and noise reduction also looked good. I didn’t bring content with lower quality content like TV to test and will do that with a more extended review later.

  5. If it can’t do 3D then I don’t want it. I just got a 75-inch LG with 3D since I heard they were dropping it; the 3D is amazing on it! Anyone who doesn’t like 3D likely hasn’t seen it like this! I won’t go back to boring 2D regardless.

    • Most people just don’t care much for 3D at the home. 3D on the E6 last year was fantastic, but when we asked readers at The Wirecutter if they cared about 3D a couple of years ago, less than 2% did, so it’s easy to see why companies are dropping it.

    • Then I guess you won’t be ever buying another TV then. Most manufacturers are dropping it this year as there is very little want for it and less and less films are being shot in or reformatted in 3d.

      • Better to have only a few really good films in 3D (that actually look good) than several awful-looking ones.

  6. Great early preview!

    Since you have a meter capable of very low light measurements, were you able to measure gamma tracking below 5%? That would be an objective way to measure the shadow detail improvement. Previous OLEDs would rapidly increase gamma to 2.5 – 2.7, etc. causing the apparent shadow crush that many complain about.

    Also, were you able to measure the ABL circuit response to verify the claims of stable brightness when running peak brightness below 150nits? Maybe a table showing the measured brightness at different white window sizes would be helpful – from 5% up to 100% screen area. Thanks.

    • There was no visible shadow crush below 5% that I could see. I mentioned the crush when I reviewed the EG9100 and the E6, but I didn’t see it here. Using a PLUGE pattern, and reading with the Klein, there was an even response from video levels 16-21 that wasn’t possible before.

      The lack of ABL is what I was directly told by one of their engineers. I couldn’t test it on the samples because they had ABL completely disabled to allow us to measure them in a shorter amount of time. Otherwise after 2 minutes in HDR the ABL kicks in and you have to back out of the menu system, and go back in to reset it. We all noticed image retention happening if you left up a 10% window in HDR for a few minutes, so it’s important that ABL exists or people would be able to damage the panels I’m sure.

      I did measure window size vs. nits. Since ABL was disabled I’m not totally confident about the 20% size, but the rest should be relatively accurate. This is with HDR enabled:

      Windows Size: nits
      1: 740 nits
      2: 740 nits
      5: 740 nits
      10: 740 nits
      20: 740 nits (uncertain about this reading)
      30: 425 nits
      40: 362 nits
      50: 319 nits

      • I bet they just disabled what people on AVS forum refer to as ASBL. There is a thread there titled “How to: Turn off ASBL on LG OLED TV” using the service menu. This is not the same as ABL and only applies to mostly static images such as those displayed during calibration. ABL has more to do with average picture level and doesn’t care if image is moving or static. On previous OLEDs, their SDR brightness would stay constant up to about 25% window size. Above that size, they would start to drop quickly, going from ~700nits to ~120 by the time you displayed a full screen white field. There was no way to disable this automatic dimming so things like bright commercials or snow/ice sports would dim visibly.

        There were rumors that the 2017 models could be adjusted to remain at 150nits for SDR content regardless of the white window size – thus effectively disabling ABL if you don’t need more than 150nits for your SDR viewing. I’m sure the ASBL feature would remain enabled to protect the panel from burn-in.

  7. I’m looking to upgrade to E6 or E7? Is the price jump worth it? Do you have any videos or pics?

    • I’d get the C7 over the E7 myself, since I don’t care about the sound and styling. If it’s worth it depends on what you watch. If you play lots of video games or watch lots of HDR, then the updates might be worth it more. If you watch more Blu-ray and TV, then you might not notice it quite as much. I’d expect the 2017 prices to come down more once the 2016 models are all gone, but that could be a few months.

      • The price of the LG C7 came down below $4000 after I bought mine for over $5000. It is well worth every dollar spent!!

  8. I am looking forward to getting the LG 65C7P soon. I will be replacing a 2015 Samsung 65UN7500 with no HDR. I have been studying and reading on the LG OLED TVs and was thinking of getting a 2016 model but thanks to posts like this I will be buying a 2017 model instead (I can learn to live without 3D). Thanks for the review and looking forward to your updates on the 2017 UHD TVs.

  9. Could someone tell me what ASBL stands for? What the letters mean? Also I
    just got the 2017 E7 model and I see that nowhere in the menu, I’d love
    to use the screen saver to protect against burn it but again nowhere in
    the menu. I noticed the screen saver (firework thing) pops up randomly
    when on some static pictures but on other apps like Netflix when in the
    main menu, I can leave it on for ever and the screen saver never starts.
    So yeah, where can I set the screen saver to my preferences?

  10. Will lower quality content like 480, 720p and 1080p content still look as good on this 4K oled to compared how good it looked on the older full hd oled models?
    Is HDR a setting that can be turned on or off or is it dependant on the source?

    • If the LG detects an HDR source (since it has to pass metadata), it will kick into HDR mode. For non-HDR sources, you can do a simulated HDR mode if you want to, but it does not force that on you. Scaling and noise reduction were both much improved compared to last year so lower resolution sources will look better than in the past.

  11. Okay. There is lots of stuff about a tv’s HDR performance with Netflix, Amazon, Blue-Ray and other black-boxes . Reams of technicalities that would send a NASA technician to sleep! All I want is a television set – you know what I mean, the kind that receives signals from a terrestrial transmission or satellite – you do! That’s great! Now, can you tell me why I should not buy an LG OLED55E7V? It looks a great set to me. Would I be making a serious mistake buying one? After all, I believe it can receive FreeView and FreeSat, and, kitted out with HLG for future HRD Broadcasting.

  12. Made a call to LG UK today. Asked, is there any difference between the 55E7N and E7V that are being sold in the main UK dealerships. Their reply was – no difference. Both sets support Freeview and FreeSat. Earlier in the present year’s production, it was the E7V being sold in the outlets – but now, August, the big boys are advertising the E7N. Even the guy on the phone at LG UK was a bit taken aback by the question – he contacted a tech-guy who confirmed the set, was in fact, the same. Mm! I wonder why? I thought the last digit or letter in LG’s identification sequencing for OLED’s was an indication of the tuners involved with that particular set? Any thoughts?

    • This is probably something like the new A-versions (B7A, C7A) that just came out in the USA. Slightly different stand, black bezel, no Atmos processing (big deal), but otherwise identical.

      • Hi, Chris. Many thanks for your quick response. And, thank you for the possible explanation. I have held off buying the E6V as I think that the E7V/N has more to offer me. With the BBC/NHK HLG format already onboard, and the tech improvements I think I’m making the right decision. All we have to do is wait for the price to fall to 2500GBP (UK) – a more realistic price tag. And, thank you for your website, I’m sure many people, worldwide, find your advice and knowledge most helpful. Kindest regards, Bill.

  13. hi chris, B7 owner here, what gamma is the recommended for a complete dark room?

    2.2 look too birght but 2.4 looks very very dark, im pretty confuse with this setting

    • It really depends on your environment. If 2.2 looks too bright, have you checked to make sure the Brightness control (black level) is set correctly? Gamma will control how fast you move from black to white, so 2.4 will remain in darker shadows longer. In a pitch black room, you’ll get better shadow detail and more impact with 2.4 potentially (it’s what I use), but if you have lights on then 2.2 will work better since otherwise those dark shadows might be hidden by the ambient light. Make sure to set the brightness after you’ve chosen a gamma, since adjusting the gamma can affect that setting.

      • thanks for the reply Chris!!

        2.4 definitive looks more punshy overral, l mostly wahtch movies or play games in a dark room but in a bright day the oled can get very reflective.

        my problem with 2.2 in a dark room its that the image look complety dull, but you see more shadow detail off course.

        sorry for bad english, OLED here are very cheap but we cant never get thing like calibretion o professional tools.

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