Reader Interactions


  1. Hi, any recommendations regarding the settings on this sound bar e.g. DTS TruSurround, Dialog/Surround levels? Just wondering what the optimal settings are?


    • Sorry for the delay in the response, was on a Christmas vacation.

      For music, I prefer the standard mode without any additional settings. With movies I would use the DTS TruSurround as I liked the extra feeling of immersion that it offers. Beyond those settings you can really pick what sounds best to you. Speakers and subwoofers are heavily influenced by walls and position, so how I set it up is likely totally different than what works best in your space.

  2. Was planning on picking up the Sony HTCT260H… now I’m not so sure! I’d like the HDMI/ARC and IR repeater, but my current TV doesn’t even support ARC- just figuring I might as well try to be future-proof. And as I plan to stand the soundbar right in front of my TV, the IR repeater on the Sony might save a lot of aggravation.

    Am I going to be kicking myself whenever I use the Sony, wishing I’d bought the Vizio? Having a hard time figuring which trade-off to make.

    • I think that the Vizio sounds better, but the IR repeater is going to be a bigger issue for you I think. I talked about this with the main sound bar reviewer at CNet (Matt Moskovciak) and he recommends the Sony more because he has friends that need the IR repeater. So if it will block the IR sensor, I’d get the Sony. It still sounds very good and will save you frustration.

  3. Hi Chris, thanks for the review. I picked up a S4221W this morning, partially due to this review. Can I ask if you used any special settings to produce your frequency response graph? I used a cheap but seemingly fairly accurate iPhone app to test the frequency response of mine, and it’s much less flat. There’s a very pronounced peak around 200Hz, which accounts for some occasional muddiness in male voices that I’ve noticed. The high-end dropoff on mine seems to start at 7 kHz and is much more significant but I haven’t noticed that as much when listening.

    • I try to measure everything in a straight, standard mode. I’m also following the technique that Brent Butterworth and Revel use, which means a calibrated microphone and many locations to remove room effects.

      Using an iPhone app will be problematic as each microphone doesn’t usually have it’s own calibration done. It only has to be so accurate for a phone and the cost to calibrate it isn’t worth it. When you also consider that the primary human vocal range is 80 Hz to 1100 Hz, and that’s what the iPhone mic really has to worry about, they don’t have much reason to care about the calibration above a certain frequency.

      • Thanks for the reply. I have used this app (“SpeakerTweaker”) with many other speaker systems and it has always given me pretty believable results. I guess this time must be an exception.

  4. Hi Chris, thanks for the awesome review – just picked one of these up myself. Question for you: I have an Xbox One (which my TV is also routed through). I have an optical cable running straight from the XB1 to the Soundbar and my options as far as output are: Uncompressed stereo, Bitstream out DTS or Bitstream out Dolby Digital. Since this will be used for TV, Movies and video games, I’m wondering your opinion on the best setting. They all sound slightly different, but I’m having trouble selecting the ‘best’ – any help is appreciated!

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