Reader Interactions


  1. Does this LG 55EG9100 include 3D? I’d imagine it’s Passive 3D if it does, much like the outgoing EC model that this replaces.

    If it does include Passive 3D, did you have a look at it at all? With the 1080p resolution, I imagine it still suffers from looking interlaced once the glasses half the resolution for each eye. But it’s be cool to know for sure from someone who’s actually seen it in person ;) Also whether it shows much if any crosstalk.

      • Great review. About input lag, did you try renaming input to PC and after that turn on Game Mode? This trick brought down input lag on the ec9300 (1080p model of last year) under 30ms. I would be very very grateful to you if you could try this, and I think it may be useful to many people who are just deciding on this new tv. Thanks.

          • Thank you very much for the ultra-fast feedback, very appreciated!!! Now I wonder if those 10 ms would make a difference…

          • Sure, after it’s turned on hit Input on the remote, then select All Inputs from the menu. Select the input on the left side of the screen you want, and on the right you can Edit the icon and the name. One of the options is a PC and that will change the icon and rename it.

          • I made it! I started worring that I chose wrong TV. If it is 40, then it makes this TV a middle class in this race, that should be okay for a part time player that I am. Thank you! BTW, from your expierience, does it happen sometimes that upgrade of a firmware changes this value? All the Best!

  2. Thank you for a very thorough review. I’ve been looking at this set since it was first announced and actually ordered one online earlier today at a great price. I can’t wait for it to arrive. After seeing the prior year’s model at Best Buy (EC9300) I knew right away that I wanted one. The picture was indeed the best I’ve ever seen. OLED is the future of television. I’m surprised LG is the only company making these sets. I think their competitors made a big mistake.

    • I don’t think other companies don’t want to make OLED but just that it is very hard to do. Panasonic has an OLED set now in the EU that’s better than the LG without the black crush, but is curved and 8,000 Euros. Samsung tried to make an OLED set and either couldn’t make it affordably or decided to go somewhere else. I’d like to see more OLED displays coming out, hopefully without the black crush flaw of the LG, but I imagine it’ll take time.

    • LG bought a patent from Kodak that enables them to manufacture OLED at a much cheaper price than any other TV manufacturer. That’s why other manufacturers are trying to come up with buzzwords to make their LCD TVs sound cutting edge. The difference is that OLED makes everything look better while the other stuff depends on content makers and providers to implement new standards and features. Expensive full array LED-backlit LCDs poorly attempt to emulate what OLED does perfectly.

  3. Regarding the black crush issue, were you able to increase the 5% gray scale control to any positive effect? Thanks.

    • Increasing 5% causes the scenes without this crush to have worse gamma. As I said, it doesn’t seem to happen over the whole image, mostly at the edges of it in my viewing. So to me I’d take the unfortunate effect as opposed to make every other scene potentially worse.

      • Thanks. Strange that LG chooses not to fix this issue in the firmware. I imagine it would be quite easy to correct with a pixel gamma shader using a vignette pattern as a mask.

        • I imagine if it was simple it would have been fixed by now. Over the past few years, across all technologies, Samsung and Panasonic have had much better CMS systems than everyone else. Almost all the other vendors keep showing the same problems, year after year. I don’t think they’re trivial to fix, at least without designing an all new CMS.

    • Aside from trade shows I never used the EC9300 so I can’t offer any comparisons between the two. I’ve seen it said that the EG9100 has a faster processor and the updated WebOS 2.0 so it’s faster. If that’s the case the EC9300 must have been slow as the EG9100 isn’t nearly as fast as a Roku or other streaming box.

      • Sorry, but Chris, you included the EC9300 in your 2014 Holiday Buyers Guide as the ULTIMATE Big Screen TV, now you’re saying you can’t compare the two models? Odd.

        • I said the EC9300 is what I’d buy myself from talking to fellow reviewers that have used it extensively and who I trust. It’s all moot now since the EC9300 isn’t available anymore and was basically discontinued once the EG9100 came out.

  4. I recently purchased the LG55EG9100 model. I have a strange problem. On the left down side of the screen for about ten inches, there is some slight red color over the grey or white scenes (Like the ice on hockey scenes). The other zones of the screen are OK. Is anyone has the same problem?


  5. “…But it isn’t backlit which is surprising for a $2,000 TV”

    It is an OLED tv, so this should not surprise you !!

  6. Hi Chris, thanks for the fantastic review. This so well written without the fluff and practical for me. I currently have a 50″ Panasonic Viera Plasma purchase in 2009. This week I almost bought a Samsung Js8500 65″ or JS9000 in 55″. I love the OLED 55ED9100 but am wondering if I’m screwed if it doesn’t do 4K in the future. What do you think of the two aforementioned Saumsungs? Should I keep my Panny and save my money for an OLED? Thanks!

    • I’m not a big fan of fluff. I’d rather write fewer words that everyone reads than write a lot more than doesn’t matter much. I reviewed the JS9000 earlier this year and would take the OLED over it. It had some backlight bleeding issues, possibly from the more powerful backlight due to HDR, but it is really distracting. The lack of 4K is annoying, and the 4K OLED is $3,000, so it costs a lot more. Next year it’ll probably be less, but you can say that every year. The OLED can still do wide gamut, but how it will handle that I’m not sure because we don’t know if that will all be physical media or streamed.

      If I was really worried, I’d probably try to hold out longer. I’m holding onto my plasma for the moment, but would get an OLED if I had to replace it. I haven’t used the JS8500 so I can’t really comment on that one.

  7. Hello, thank you for the excellent review. I have a quick question in reference to the calibration process.

    I just purchased this television and have been extremely happy with it, however I feel if I could properly calibrate it I could increase the performance and image. Now, I have no experience with TV Calibration, so I am wondering in the dark here. After spending probably too much on a TV (according to my wife), I do not have a ton to spend on some calibration software. I did happen upon the CalMAN Home Express TV Calibration Kit ($99), and was wondering your thoughts in reference to this product? Do you think I can expect a quality improvement over the factory settings with this product? Could a beginner like myself expect to easily operate this program with positive results? If not, is there another calibration software you would recommend that is in this ballpark price point?

    Really appreciate your time and help!

    • The problem with that CalMAN kit is that the meter is designed around LCDs, and likely won’t perform well with an OLED. The colors emitted by OLEDs have a different spectral distribution than an LCD. While to our eyes they will look very similar, to a meter they will be very different. This is why I had to use my i1Pro and not my C6 to calibrate the OLED, because otherwise the numbers I got were wrong.

      The cheapest spectrometer you will likely get is an i1Pro or i1Pro2, and that will cost ~$500 for a used one and $1,000 for a new one. So unless you really want to teach yourself, or plan to do it for a living, it’ll be far cheaper to hire someone most likely.

  8. This tv would be a instant buy for me if LG would stop using or allow users to disable the ABL they implement in their sets.

    I can handle a little black crush, but moving contrast around when too much white is being displayed shouldn’t be a thing in a set this expensive.

    • ABL on OLED and Plasma is more a function of the power supply and being limited there than an intentional choice. I never noticed it in my time with it, even when I fired up Art of Flight and it’s almost 100% white scenes right next to an LCD.

  9. Thanks for review, I am just looking for the best Full HD tv on the market. But one, for me very important point, is missing. Please if you can tell your opinion about SD upscaling quality of this LG, some people are saying that Sony is better. In my country 90% of TV programs are SD, and I have cca 1000 DVDs, so for me it is important. Interesting for sharpnes and noise at upscaling??? This is the reason 4K is useless for me, even on the best and most expensive, SD picture is worse than on my 5 years old HD tv.

    • If I was buying a TV for myself to replace my plasma, I’d get an OLED. While the LG has its flaws, its benefits are such that I’ll gladly accept them. I really liked the Samsung JU7100 series this past year, but I’d still take a smaller OLED over the higher-resolution and larger LCD.

        • My usual recommendation is to get a projector at that size. A 70″ LCD is at least $2,000 usually and an 80″ is up to $4,000 or so. $800 can get you a nice 1080p projector like the BenQ HT2050 (review coming, hopefully next week) and then you can get a good white screen for $250 for 120″. If you need a light rejecting screen, you can get that and still come in under the price of an LCD usually for a much larger screen.

          If you need an LCD then I’d probably lean towards the Vizio M. They performed very well, not quite as well as the Samsung JU7100, but a 70″ is $1,900 while a 75″ Samsung JU7100 is $4,300.

  10. Three questions for Chris. Thanks in advance!
    1. Why the EG9100 and not the EC9300? Looks like EC9300 is <$1500 on East Coast TVs vs $2000 for 2015 model (9100).
    2. I have a 7 blinking red lights/dead GT30, costing me $350 to fix a bad buffer and SC board. Would you do same thing or spend $1500-2000 on LG OLED? Love my Panny.
    3. Are sites like Nice Electronics and East Coast TVs scams/bait n switch schemes like most reviews say or are people just upset about paying extra for insurance after the fact, etc? Are these dealers taking out the good parts and selling retrofitted versions? I know Nice Electronics sells an Asian and a Mexican model of most TVs. Very confusing.


    • When the EG9100 came out it was ~$200 more than the EC9300, but the EC9300 was going away to be replaced by the EG9100. Now you can find the EG9100 on sale often on ebay from reputable dealers (like Adorama) for $1500-$1600. Since that’s the same price as the EC9300 there is no reason to get the older model with an older WebOS.

      You can read more about how sites like Nice Electronics and East Coast TVs work here:

      I’d never buy from any of them. Ever.

      • Thanks Chris. Unfortunately I don’t see the $1500-1600 you’re referring to on eBay/Adorama for the EG9100. I see Adorama listed on eBay for $1997. How can I find for $1500-1600? Thanks!

        • You have to look who is selling it on eBay and then check to see if they’re LG Authorized, and their return policies. The EG9100 has been the eBay Deal of the Day one weekend every month since it came out. Usually when it is I’ll post it to Twitter on the RHT account and retweet it so people know. The 55″ EF9500 was $2400 this past Friday and we tweeted about that, since it was the first time it was below $3,000.

          Adorama is LG Authorized, so if the TV was broken the warranty would handle it, but buying from Amazon is the easiest way for a TV usually.

          • Thank you sir! Extremely helpful. Just one more Q. Would you repair old GT30 for $350 or buy new LG OLED non-4K for $1500? Is picture quality of new LG better than GT30?

          • Yes. I have a VT60, which is better than the GT30 by three generations, and the OLED is the first thing I’d pick to replace it. Better blacks, though the very dark shadow areas are the small issue it has but it’s still better than any LCD at that.

          • LAST QUESTIONS FOR NOW: Would you get EF9500 ($2300 right now on eBay/adorama) or EG9100 ($1400 when it goes on sale)? How important is 4K/UHD? How much should we expect both versions to drop in price by say, this summer? THANK YOU SO MUCH!

          • Myself, I’d probably get the EF9500. It’s flat, it supports HDR, and it has an expanded color gamut. I’m more concerned about those than the resolution. With UltraHD Blu-ray discs isn’t going to look better than the EG9100 will and the black flames/shadow crush issue is reduced on the EF9500 compared to the EG9100.

            The new B6 OLED from LG is comparable to the EF9500, but with a larger color gamut (99% of DCI/P3 compared to 86-88% for the EF9500). However we have no prices or release date for it yet, so I have no idea what it’s going to cost or when it will come out. It’s more likely to be early-mid summer since that’s when the EF9500 came out last year but that’s an educated guess.

  11. Chris – Purchased the 55EG9100 on Ebay via BuyDig. Any more intel on proper config given your settings aren’t discussed other than Expert 1 mode? TV will be in a bright-ish room but not sure what to make of your comment above (setting numbers would be helpful): “Most people can put the display into Expert 1, adjust the OLED panel level and gamma preset for their room, and be happy.” How do I know which OLED level and gamma preset to use…?


    • The panel level will adjust the maximum level of light output from the panel. How high that should be depends on your room. If it’s a brighter room, it should be higher.

      The BT.1886 and 2.4 gamma selections behave identically (as they should, since BT.1886 and 2.4 are the same if you have absolute black) and are ideal for nighttime or dim viewing. If it’s a brighter room you might want to set that to 2.2 or 2.1. You can use Expert 2 for this and keep Expert 1 for darker rooms.

  12. Hi, I’m trying to calibrate my oled 55eg9100 with calman 5 + xrite idisplay 2 , I see there is a great difference betwenn lcd and oled. So in meter settings, meter mode, I can choose plasma target or lcd target display type. I think the correct one is plasma but I don’t know if the results will be correct at all or only a little bit less accurate…..what do you suggest ? (buy a new meter excluded….:) )

    • Unfortunately you’re not going to be able to do it well without a different meter. We only use the i1Pro or i1Pro2, because the light spectrum from OLED is different than one some other meters can read. We use a different meter to read the black level and very low levels of light output only, but otherwise use a spectrometer. This is what SpectraCal advised us to do. Also, the filters on the i1Display2 are known to degrade over time. Since it hasn’t been made for a while, the data it provides now isn’t that reliable at all. I did testing on two of them around 3 years ago and found this was the case, and it will only be worse now.

  13. Update 07/25/2016 ( We’ve received a report that the input lag is now 29.6 ms after the firmware update 04.01.00. We don’t have that TV anymore to confirm this unfortunately.
    Anyone can confirm ???
    also how about testing input lag on 4k ?! not just 1080p !

  14. Just bought this tv, look great! Now I’m looking for good picture settings and for games too, what do you guys recommend?

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